So work out what it is you want from showing (hobby, social, promotion of an animal or a bloodline or a stud as a whole, or competition) This decided you’ll have a better idea of how much time and money you can afford to spend on showing.

Selection will vary depending on the answer to (WHY?) If you have an animal or preferably two to keep each other company then you’re onto working out which show or sale you ultimately want to peak at. Cattle are no different to athletes; it is impossible to keep them at their best indefinitely. So work out the most important date for the animal and everything else is then focused on getting the animal to peak condition and appearance for that date. If you have more than a few to choose from then you have to do a bit of prejudging and crystal ball gazing. To wind up with the right animal you may use selection criteria similar to mine.

1. Docility

Starting with an animal that is naturally quiet can make things a lot easier.

2. Structure

Remember that no animal is perfect and that there is a huge difference between a defect and a weakness.

3. Fertility

Well above breed standard testicular development for bulls, females to have 4 teats well set and of a good size and shape and preferably joined to calve at under 30 months of age.

4. Weight Gain and Frame Score

Set goals for attainment - use old catalogues from the target show as a guide to what weights and scans were achieved.

Figures are used in some show rings and may assist if you are aiming to sell the animal.

Something that will affect the sale price. It is pretty hard to sell an unproven product for big dollars.

After yard weaning with the rest of their mates, split them off. Remember they’ve just left mum and must feel pretty vulnerable. So we find a safe small run or yard for them. Preferably somewhere close so that they are constantly getting to see everything that goes on around the farm. Keep them on straight hay for now. Drench at weaning and again at 8 weeks with a broad spectrum that covers internal and external parasites.

Walk them through the race a few times - quietly, give them a scratch but not too much pressure. At this stage we want them to get over the fear of people and the crush. Talk to them. It doesn’t matter what you say but the tone of voice you use. After a few weeks introduce a grain mix to their diet. (Talk to locals or nutritionists and find a protein source that is cost effective for you and one that you can keep constant for the duration). I use a 3 litre fruit juice tin as a measure. It’s cheap and replaceable and it holds a neat 2kg (of my mix). Half a dipper morning and night until they’re looking for more will do. When they are keen on this I’ll lift them to one dipper each morning and night, which is about 1% of their body weight and from there it will depend on target weights, how they are converting and how they mature. You only have to get their gut used to grain at this early stage. Too fast and you will have a set back.

Once they are established on feed, it’s time to tie them up! I like to work with them for at least three days successively for their first tie up sessions. I have solid rope halters, which slide freely on rings and a secure area out of the crush with a solid rail about hip height. With as little fuss as possible and maybe an extension rope pull them out of the crush onto the rail and secure them with a fast release knot. Don’t give them too much rope. If your using hackamores put them on and let them wear them for a few days before tying them up. While they are tied up for their first few times, talk to them and never let them out of your sight. From here on in every animal will react differently and will have to be treated as an individual. An hour or so is usually sufficient. Some animals will work it out quicker than others and will come forward and take the pressure of their jaw. After the first few tie-ups start to use a brush on them. Work down both sides; use a broom if you need a bit more space to feel comfortable. Slowly progress from day to day and start with little steps. Even moving them a few yards over to another rail to a piece of sweet hay or a bucket of water is a good start. KEEP TALKING.

Try small trips into another yard and back again - you are trying to teach them what you want from them. Drive them, don’t drag them. By this I mean walk alongside not in front. You should be using an animals eye as the focus. If you want them to stop, move forward of their eye. Move back and they can see what is ahead of them. Someone to follow them up is a great help. Anything different you can introduce them to at home before their first outing will be of benefit (kids, dogs, horses, ribbons, music, balloons, trucking, show canes).

Be aware of regulations that may affect you at the show or sale. (e.g: Nose rings in bulls over 12 months - get these in with plenty of time for the nose to heal and for the bull to get used to it. Don’t pull on the nose ring - use it sparingly.)

Before getting to the show, I do some ‘hair work’ and clipping. My basic hair work is rinsing (no shampoo) then brushing down, combing forward and ‘blowing’ forward, aiming to have the hair going in one direction without curls etc. Clipping is a very individual art but the aim remains the same and that is, to make the animal look as good as you possibly can and emphasize the good points and diminish the negatives. There is usually someone at a show that would be able to clip your animal for you given time and a fee.

Don’t be afraid to ask other exhibitors for advice or their opinions - there is always something new to learn!

So enjoy your time in the ring. Be confident in your decision to show the animal but be open to constructive criticism. One thing has never changed - there is still only one place between 2^nd and supreme exhibit.

Good luck and safe travelling.